16
ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: Lap Harps
« on: February 14, 2011, 10:01:13 am »
yes - an ebow will work on most strings that will respond to a magnetic field (will work with steel, nickel - but not materials like nylon)
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
17
ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: Lap Harps
« on: February 11, 2011, 08:18:23 pm »
i found mine at a second hand store - but they seem to be pretty abundant online / ebay etc...
i have a "music maker" i installed a piezo in - this model seems to be pretty common, but does not stay in tune longer than a single take. does anyone have better experiences with different models staying in tune?
i have a "music maker" i installed a piezo in - this model seems to be pretty common, but does not stay in tune longer than a single take. does anyone have better experiences with different models staying in tune?
18
COMPUTER MUSIC / Re: apogee duet
« on: February 11, 2011, 08:10:29 pm »
josh, is this happening specifically in lloopp / ppooll? i have had to reset the dsp settings before when i had that issue (un-plugging and plugging in does the same thing...) so it might not be the interface, but an issue in lloop/maxmsp - just a thought...
19
ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: strymon timeline
« on: January 16, 2011, 12:07:06 pm »
I'm excited about this, lot of possibilities in those different modes. But, does it have any lopping functions? Looking at the controls, it doesn't seem like it to me.
looks like there is a built in looper (the right switch reads "stop" / "hold looper"). i imagine you'll just hold down the switch to access the looper...
so much is rumor at this point, although there is a poorly shot video on youtube - the audio clips a lot but i suppose it gives an idea of some of the possibilities...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M46J-EXgzhw
i'll be curious to see strymon post some official info on this - full feature listing, good quality videos/clips, pricing etc...
20
ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: the Strymon El Capistan tape looper pedal
« on: January 15, 2011, 11:36:13 am »
strymon timeline ... thought i would post for those who are still on the fence about an el capistan (which are probably only a few regular forum members here it seems)
not sure on a release yet... but sounds like it is a multi-delay unit/looper (similar to dl4/m9)
interesting highlights:
dbucket (brigadier)
dtape (el capistan)
granular synthesis
looper
stereo in/out or mono in/out + feedback loop
sounds like the pricing is going to be around $499 - i'll be interested to see what is all in the unit once strymon makes some official announcements...
i'm sure there will be some el capistan buyers that might be a little upset about the upcoming timeline containing the dtape algorithm... i for one am very happy i picked one up - there is still something to be said about the simplicity of a dedicated/stand-alone unit.
21
STUDIO + RECORDING TECHNIQUES / Re: cassette tape loops
« on: November 06, 2010, 03:44:28 pm »glad you have it pretty much sorted out.
RE: the gap... it will be shorter (as will the loop unfortunately) if you use higher speeds on your 4-track. have you given that a shot? i would up over dubbing on multiple track on my 4-track so you don't hear the tape gap as much, just a pop here and there for each track. it gives it a nice rhythm i think
please post links to some results!
ah, good call! i need to get my hands on an old four track. i have been using modified portable cassette recorders, so the overdubs are always in one go ... guesses + surprises. i have been kicking myself for selling my four track years ago...
22
ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: FX pedals
« on: November 06, 2010, 03:40:49 pm »Thanks for all your help, David. It's been really informative. Great job!
not a problem, my pleasure
23
ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: FX pedals
« on: November 04, 2010, 04:22:38 pm »Ah! Thanks, David. This helps a lot.
Just to make sure I get this right, I'm going to order this switch - http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=38 - for the mod, and then this switch - http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=985 - for the bypass replacement.
Sorry for the repetitiousness of this convo. I literally haven't a clue what I'm doing! Thankfully, I've got a friend with experience in this area helping me out.
And yes - I did manage to salvage the set. I have a couple loopers inside of Ableton, as well; so I just swapped out the cables, plugged directly into my soundcard and did all my looping inside the laptop. Not ideal, by any stretch...but it got the job done!
those should work - even though the bypass switch is board mounted, it actually just looked like a standard 3pdt switch to me when i opened mine up last night ( http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=20 ). the only difference on the board mountable 3pdt switch is longer leads, which would probably make things easier - so either should work.
glad to hear the laptop saved it - i have been working sans laptop a lot lately, so hardware failure is a little more problematic for me...
24
ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: the Strymon El Capistan tape looper pedal
« on: November 03, 2010, 10:12:58 pm »just got one in the mail today. In mono it seemed OK. In stereo it's amazing. I'm still getting used to it so there may be a setting and/or use that makes mono shine too. Exciting. The Forum definitely made me feel a feeding frenzy to buy one...
just curious, what is it about the stereo imaging that makes such a difference? is just the spring reverb in stereo, or do the echos ping-pong, or is it something more complex than that?
25
ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: FX pedals
« on: November 03, 2010, 10:09:59 pm »I opened up the back plate of my unit the other day and tried to take a look, but the circuit board is anchored to the actual chassis of the pedal. I'm a little loathe to start taking things apart. Would you mind taking a look for me?
I had a show last night and the switch just finally died completely! Bit of a bummer as I had to scramble for a workaround halfway through the set...
whoa, hope you were were able to save the set! nothing worse than flakey equipment live...
you shouldn't have to touch the main board if it is just the bypass switch that needs replacing (and it shouldn't be affixed to the chassis besides being held in place by the jacks and potentiometers).
the smmwh just uses a standard 3dpt switch for bypass - soldered to its own break out board. you'll need to take the nut/washer off the switch from the top on the unit - then turn the unit around, take off the back cover and de-solder the 9 pins from the switch (see image, please note it was taken from my laptop so it is mirrored). don't do anything with the ribbon-cable / connections. do note that ehx uses lead-free solder, so you'll need quite a bit of heat. once you remove the old switch, it is just a matter of putting the new one in, soldering the switch in place on the breakout board and screwing it back together.
good luck! let me know how it goes
26
STUDIO + RECORDING TECHNIQUES / Re: cassette tape loops
« on: October 21, 2010, 02:17:32 pm »
are you recording the audio before or after you make the loops? if you are recording after you physically made the loop, you are hearing the gap between the erase and record/play head(s). the erase head comes in contact with the tape first, then the tape travels a bit before it reaches the record/play head - so the gap you might be hearing is the part of the tape that has been erased, but not recorded on yet.
if you want to achieve a loop without a gap, you need to record the audio first and then splice the loop - or - modify your unit to defeat the erase head. in order to do this you'll need to physically remove the head (if it is a permanent magnet) or wire in a switch to cut the signal going to the erase head (if it is an electromagnet). you can tell the difference by looking of the erase head and see if there are any wires running to it - if there are wires you have an electromagnet. but then you'll have a new problem of hearing the clunk of the stop button, or electrical pop
another possibility is the tape is effecting how the tape is traveling over the record/play head - i have noticed sometimes if the tape tension is too low, the spliced area will develop a permanent bend causing the tape to pull away from the head in areas (causing drop outs) so making sure the tape is tight once the tape is in play/record mode would be the remedy for that problem.
also, i have noticed with thicker tape, you usually get a bump each time the tape travels over the head (due to the relative thickness of the splice) but usually not a gap in audio as well...
otherwise if all of the above doesn't solve it, i think marc's advice is great making sure the tape is spliced on the correct side (scotch or splicing tape opposite the record/play head)
in the end, it is the imperfections that are most often the beauty - why else would we be interested in making loops out of magnetic tape when there are plenty of ways to make much cleaner loops digitally
if you want to achieve a loop without a gap, you need to record the audio first and then splice the loop - or - modify your unit to defeat the erase head. in order to do this you'll need to physically remove the head (if it is a permanent magnet) or wire in a switch to cut the signal going to the erase head (if it is an electromagnet). you can tell the difference by looking of the erase head and see if there are any wires running to it - if there are wires you have an electromagnet. but then you'll have a new problem of hearing the clunk of the stop button, or electrical pop
another possibility is the tape is effecting how the tape is traveling over the record/play head - i have noticed sometimes if the tape tension is too low, the spliced area will develop a permanent bend causing the tape to pull away from the head in areas (causing drop outs) so making sure the tape is tight once the tape is in play/record mode would be the remedy for that problem.
also, i have noticed with thicker tape, you usually get a bump each time the tape travels over the head (due to the relative thickness of the splice) but usually not a gap in audio as well...
otherwise if all of the above doesn't solve it, i think marc's advice is great making sure the tape is spliced on the correct side (scotch or splicing tape opposite the record/play head)
in the end, it is the imperfections that are most often the beauty - why else would we be interested in making loops out of magnetic tape when there are plenty of ways to make much cleaner loops digitally
27
STUDIO + RECORDING TECHNIQUES / Re: cassette tape loops
« on: October 20, 2010, 06:15:26 pm »
while scotch tape should be okay, i have found actual cassette splicing tape to hold up better
the best way to get a clean loop would be to invest in a splicing block - if you plan on doing a lot with tape loops you'll thank yourself... not only will they help make sure the splice is just right, it will hold the tape while you cut + tape it.
the best way to get a clean loop would be to invest in a splicing block - if you plan on doing a lot with tape loops you'll thank yourself... not only will they help make sure the splice is just right, it will hold the tape while you cut + tape it.
28
ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: FX pedals
« on: October 07, 2010, 10:11:11 pm »Could you point out a solid footswitch to replace my buggered bypass clicker while you're at it?
without looking, i am pretty sure ehx just uses 3dpt switches such as this one http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=20 however, i do know the switches in the smmwh attach to breakout-boards, so it might be a board mountable switch http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=985
if you can't figure it out, i can try and open mine up in the next couple of days to take a look.
29
ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: FX pedals
« on: October 07, 2010, 07:00:10 pm »
all you need is some wire and a toggle switch like one here http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=38 ...in addition to the tools (drill, soldering iron)
one thing to consider is where to place the switch - i ended up putting mine on the top edge of the pedal instead of the side - this allowed for placing other pedals to the left a lot closer when using 90 degree patch cables - in addition to being easier for me to reach if i am holding down the momentary switch with my foot already...
one thing to consider is where to place the switch - i ended up putting mine on the top edge of the pedal instead of the side - this allowed for placing other pedals to the left a lot closer when using 90 degree patch cables - in addition to being easier for me to reach if i am holding down the momentary switch with my foot already...
30
ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: Looper - 2880 or Boomerang?
« on: September 30, 2010, 09:43:44 pm »On the subject of loopers, my Stereo Memory Man is having some funky issues with its bypass switch. It's unreliable at best, often taking several clicks to engage properly. It's really annoying. Has anyone else seen this issue when their SMM?
good thing is the smmwh is designed to have the switch(s) swapped out fairly easily (each switch is soldered to its own break out board). if you are handy with a soldering iron i imagine you would get by for under an hour and $10 for parts