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ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: modification for quiet foot-switches (2880, stereo memory man, cathedral)
« on: April 20, 2012, 09:32:01 am »Lovely, the two way toggle (with three solder lugs) should do the trick nicely then!
sure will, good luck!
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sure will, good luck!
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ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: modification for quiet foot-switches (2880, stereo memory man, cathedral)
« on: April 17, 2012, 02:49:27 pm »Another question for you David!
When wiring up the toggle switch, it appears that on your photo both leads from the footswitch go to just one lug on the toggle - is that right?
all you are doing is completing that connection (or not), so you only need one side of the toggle (one wire to the center lug, one wire to an accompanying lug). one way connects, the other breaks the connection.
in terms of adding an led, that would take a bit more research. i am not sure where people are pulling the power from in the circuit (maybe just directly from the 9v in). if you find some more info on this, please pass it along. it would be helpful to have a recording indicator.
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ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / 2880 discontinued...
« on: April 07, 2012, 09:44:52 am »
saw this via their own product page http://www.ehx.com/products/2880
i hope this means there is an improved version, ready for release soon. i'm anxious to hear any details / if i need to jump on an older unit...
let the speculation begin...
i hope this means there is an improved version, ready for release soon. i'm anxious to hear any details / if i need to jump on an older unit...
let the speculation begin...
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ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: modification for quiet foot-switches (2880, stereo memory man, cathedral)
« on: February 20, 2012, 07:58:56 pm »
Just to clarify, when you do the above option, the toggle switch gives you two operating modes for the foot switch;
1. Tap Tempo/Hold to Record (i.e. how the pedal works pre-mod)
2. Click to engage record/overdub, click to disengage record/overdub (though in this mode you cannot tap tempo)
Is that right?
1. yes - the tap tempo/record switch will work the same as it always has (except it would be quiet if you swap it out for a softswitch).
2. yes - the clicking to engage record/overdub would happen with the toggle - flipped one way would be record/overdub, the other would just be normal (when it is engaged the tap tempo would not work because electronically, it is the equivalent of just holding that momentary switch down with your foot).
hope this helps!
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ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: modification for quiet foot-switches (2880, stereo memory man, cathedral)
« on: February 20, 2012, 10:35:02 am »
gareth-
you have a couple of options depending on what you want
1. (this is what i did, there is a picture below) replace a the tap-tempo/record switch with a quiet softswitch + add a toggle switch in line (for when you don't want to hold the footswitch down). the upside of this is you retain the momentary switch and tap tempo functionality, while adding the ability to stay in record mode hands-free without having to have a separate remote foot-switch. to downside is you have to use your hand to go in and out of held record mode.
2. everything the same as #1, except instead of a toggle, wire in an audio jack that you can run to a separate box that would have a selecting foot-switch (not momentary). the advantage here is you could go in and out of record with your foot, but it would be loud - kind of defeating part of the reason to mod in the first place.
3. if you want a quiet softswitch and have it be a toggle (press once to record, once to stop recording), then you'll have to use something like cusack's tbs2 system - this would probably be the messiest since it requires power to work the relays... also, you would lose tap-tempo function.
you have a couple of options depending on what you want
1. (this is what i did, there is a picture below) replace a the tap-tempo/record switch with a quiet softswitch + add a toggle switch in line (for when you don't want to hold the footswitch down). the upside of this is you retain the momentary switch and tap tempo functionality, while adding the ability to stay in record mode hands-free without having to have a separate remote foot-switch. to downside is you have to use your hand to go in and out of held record mode.
2. everything the same as #1, except instead of a toggle, wire in an audio jack that you can run to a separate box that would have a selecting foot-switch (not momentary). the advantage here is you could go in and out of record with your foot, but it would be loud - kind of defeating part of the reason to mod in the first place.
3. if you want a quiet softswitch and have it be a toggle (press once to record, once to stop recording), then you'll have to use something like cusack's tbs2 system - this would probably be the messiest since it requires power to work the relays... also, you would lose tap-tempo function.
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ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: Acoustic Laptops
« on: December 09, 2011, 11:21:32 am »david... those audio demos above are truly things of beauty!
thanks so much taylor.
i'd love to have a box with 3 different surfaces on top.. wood, rubber, and metal...
that could certainly happen. i have been using the double sided metal/wood version with a drum (rubber) pad over top at times to soften the sound. i could see the benefit of having all three materials readily available on one side (although you would probably want independent outs or volume control for each, as the different materials end up having different levels). if you are interested in a custom commissioned version, send me a note info@nooswane.com
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ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: Acoustic Laptops
« on: October 29, 2011, 08:51:06 am »
thanks taylor- the smaller one pictured (on the left) is 9" square. of course the beautiful thing about build-to-order is it could be whatever size you like.
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ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: Acoustic Laptops
« on: October 28, 2011, 05:50:55 pm »
those are great - wonderful as objects in their own right.
related, albeit a bit of a plug, but i have some contact mic surfaces i made about a year ago now that i plan to offer as a build-to-order unit. two models, mono and stereo. they have two switchable surfaces/sides, plywood and aluminum (for their different tonal qualities). here are some posts with them in use: http://www.davidandree.com/blog/?tag=contactmicrophonesurface
most of the first batch have/are making their ways into friends' hands, but that said i do have a stereo version and a couple of the mono versions on hand. while i'm still working out the specifics on the pricing/e-commerce end, i thought i would put it out there for people interested. don't hesitate to get in touch info@nooswane.com
related, albeit a bit of a plug, but i have some contact mic surfaces i made about a year ago now that i plan to offer as a build-to-order unit. two models, mono and stereo. they have two switchable surfaces/sides, plywood and aluminum (for their different tonal qualities). here are some posts with them in use: http://www.davidandree.com/blog/?tag=contactmicrophonesurface
most of the first batch have/are making their ways into friends' hands, but that said i do have a stereo version and a couple of the mono versions on hand. while i'm still working out the specifics on the pricing/e-commerce end, i thought i would put it out there for people interested. don't hesitate to get in touch info@nooswane.com
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STUDIO + RECORDING TECHNIQUES / Re: Starting off with Reel to Reel
« on: September 07, 2011, 09:11:38 pm »Thanks Billy. I've previously tried experimenting with tape loops. By more adventurous, I was thinking along the lines of something that wasn't limited to the confines of a cassette. Such as those huge reel to reel loops you see that stretch from one end of the room to the other. Guess that's probably never going to happen with something as fragile as casette tape though.
just because it is not commonly done, doesn't mean it is impossible. give your ideas a shot and let us know your results!
you are not alone in this impulse. i have a bunch of cassette recorders i got for free from a local school that i plan on combining to create a lofi looper at some point (when i have time to play with possibilities). i think there is potential there, it just needs to be worked out. of course i'll share any ideas or tips when/if i encounter them.
i do agree the fragility/thinness of cassette tape will be a problem here... but hey, a lot of interesting things can happen when you are right on the edge of things falling apart. there ends up being a tension and urgency about the process as a result that i quite like.
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ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: modification for quiet foot-switches (2880, stereo memory man, cathedral)
« on: August 27, 2011, 05:06:49 pm »yeah, the el cap switches are SO LOUD. i would love a solution.
i know taylor + i both emailed strymon and got pretty much the same answer that you guys did.
what soft-switches were you using on your EHX mods?
you can use any momentary, normally open switch.
i personally use these particular spst switches: http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=672
they don't click and have a really smooth travel. if you press them slowly/carefully enough you can cut loops with an open mic and not pick them up. the new switches on the foot controller are way better in this regard than the buttons on the 2880 itself.
i recently changed my kill-switch over to a soft-switch too. i needed a normally closed switch for the operation i wanted and spent a long time trying to find an equivalent to the switch i posted above, but normally closed. so if anyone needs a normally closed soft-switch i would recommend the carling 170 (with the metal pushbutton). the travel takes a little more pressure, but is smooth and click-less. http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/170/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsqIr59i2oRcopNahx%252bXQ5wFhcVWHJzwAo%3D
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ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: modification for quiet foot-switches (2880, stereo memory man, cathedral)
« on: August 10, 2011, 08:57:22 am »
i got the same word from strymon (it is possible to be done with a spst softswitch). that is great to hear.
oh yeah, that would be the easy part. make sure to get a desoldering pump if you don't already have one (around $5).
seems like it could work something like this:
first thing would be to have an anti-static mat and wrist strap (and a properly grounded soldering iron). as this pedal is like a little computer, you have to be mindful of static around the chips/dsp.
the second thing would be to install the pull up resistor (5k) from the 3.3v pin to the center pin.
thirdly, if you look at the way the boards are mounted, the switches hold that side of the board(s) in place so an alternative way to secure the board is needed.
i already think i have a clean solution for that problem. if you look inside you'll see they use a post to connect two boards together. i imagine you could find a post at a hardware store that could continue from the point they secure the boards together to say the bottom of the case where you could secure it with another screw.
the posts i am referring to would be like these:
once thats done it seems like it would just be dropping switches in and running wires from the contacts on the switch to the contacts on the board. i don't have any extra on hand to do a dry fit, but it seems as though they might fit inside the chassis as is (might have to bend the contacts on the switch to avoid the round over on the front of the case though, which would be no problem).
oh sorry, i didn't ask about sending it in, as i figured when i find time i'd just do it myself. i was asking more for technical details / if it can be done with the existing circuit. if you send them a note they'll get back to you quickly - terry was really helpful.
and hey i didn't want to interrupt, seems like he would be a good guy to know. fraufraulein would fit in well with the taiga lineup in my opinion
if the switch is soldered on board, it shouldn't be that hard to desolder right? i haven't opened her up though...
oh yeah, that would be the easy part. make sure to get a desoldering pump if you don't already have one (around $5).
seems like it could work something like this:
first thing would be to have an anti-static mat and wrist strap (and a properly grounded soldering iron). as this pedal is like a little computer, you have to be mindful of static around the chips/dsp.
the second thing would be to install the pull up resistor (5k) from the 3.3v pin to the center pin.
thirdly, if you look at the way the boards are mounted, the switches hold that side of the board(s) in place so an alternative way to secure the board is needed.
i already think i have a clean solution for that problem. if you look inside you'll see they use a post to connect two boards together. i imagine you could find a post at a hardware store that could continue from the point they secure the boards together to say the bottom of the case where you could secure it with another screw.
the posts i am referring to would be like these:
once thats done it seems like it would just be dropping switches in and running wires from the contacts on the switch to the contacts on the board. i don't have any extra on hand to do a dry fit, but it seems as though they might fit inside the chassis as is (might have to bend the contacts on the switch to avoid the round over on the front of the case though, which would be no problem).
let me know what you find out from strymon. I'd be willing to send mine in for a pro softswitch mod. as you heard...it can be very hard for me to use the strymon's switches in concert. speaking of which, you should've just come on over and interrupted. I always do. I'm glad you were able to make it!
oh sorry, i didn't ask about sending it in, as i figured when i find time i'd just do it myself. i was asking more for technical details / if it can be done with the existing circuit. if you send them a note they'll get back to you quickly - terry was really helpful.
and hey i didn't want to interrupt, seems like he would be a good guy to know. fraufraulein would fit in well with the taiga lineup in my opinion
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ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: modification for quiet foot-switches (2880, stereo memory man, cathedral)
« on: August 09, 2011, 02:33:09 pm »I looked into doing this on my Strymon Capistan but the build quality is actually too good for this operation to be cheap/safe...
yeah, i looked at the inside of the el cap as well ... it uses dpdt switches that are soldered directly to the board. however, i'm not sure if they are using both poles or not as it is hard to trace the circuit with the stacked boards (if they are only using a single pole, it might be possible to swap them out, but it would get a little messier with such a tight fit in there...).
doesn't the timeline use soft switches? if so maybe there is a drop-in replacement available with the right height requirement. i think i'll send strymon a note and see what i can find out...
i could see how you would want to mod that one - it ends up being pretty loud in context with your projects. congrats on the minneapolis show by the way, i really enjoyed both your work as fraufraulein and nathan's set as well. you guys complimented each other quite nicely - great pairing. (i wanted to say hi, but didn't want to interrupt your conversation with andrew)
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ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / modification for quiet foot-switches (2880, stereo memory man, cathedral)
« on: August 09, 2011, 11:32:19 am »
just swapped out the switches on my 2880 foot controller, stereo memory man with hazarai and cathedral. thought there would be someone here who might be interested / benefit from the quiet (and smoother) operation. the mod is very straight-forward - you just drop in soft-switches in place of the spdt switches that come stock on the pedals. they work great...just wondering why i didn't do it sooner.
for more images, including gut shots, head over to http://www.davidandree.com/blog/?p=1525
for more images, including gut shots, head over to http://www.davidandree.com/blog/?p=1525
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ACOUSTIC ELECTRIC / Re: the Strymon El Capistan tape looper pedal
« on: July 29, 2011, 09:10:41 am »maybe a 2880 question
where might the benefit of having 4 tracks for looping come into play vs. just one, i would imagine having stereo outs your bouncing this all into one or two channels in your daw anyway right
fading in and out loops! over the course of a work it is a great feature to be able to create a loop, move to the next track and build it further only to pull out the initial loop (and even bring it back later). or build up 4 loops in conversation and bring them in and out - this makes for some creative live mix-downs fading between different tracks.
or if you use it as a composing tool, you can isolate a track/loop that you like and experiment on other tracks (without the risk of screwing up the main loop).
Quote from: land titles link=topic=342.msg692frippertronics1#msg6921 date=1311929438
and what makes the looper on the el capistan quirky
it acts like a long tape delay (think frippertronics), so each time the loop repeats the signal gets fed back through the algorithm applying tape artifacts, frequency loss, and flutter (by how much you dial in of course) progressively writing those modifications to your loop.
edit: ha, too slow...
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ART / Re: RIP Cy Twombly
« on: July 06, 2011, 01:00:03 pm »
sad news - such an incredible artist. he left us with an amazing body of work. make sure to see his work in person if at all possible
http://cytwombly.info/
http://cytwombly.info/